False Reflection

These two tiny maple leaves hanging from the same branch immediately caught my attention. From the right angle, they almost looked like one was reflecting the other in water, even though there was no reflection at all.
I found them beside a creek, and there's something special about photographing around moving water. The constant sound almost blocks out everything else and helps me focus completely on what's in front of me. Someone could probably be 20 feet away and I wouldn't even hear them... which is relaxing, although maybe not ideal if I ever need to yell for help. 😜
Once I found the composition, I started thinking about how I could push that illusion even further. I wanted the area between the leaves to feel almost like water, so I decided to introduce cool blue highlights while keeping most of the surrounding scene dark.
That's how False Reflection came to life.

[SCENE SETUP]
Two tiny maple leaves (1) hanging naturally from the same branch beside a creek. A piece of steel wool (3) was positioned only a couple of inches behind the leaves to create large out-of-focus highlights between them, while a nearby concrete wall (6) formed the natural background. Because the leaves were wet and producing strong reflections, a circular polarizer (7) was used on the lens to reduce glare and reveal more of their natural color and texture.
[LIGHT PLACEMENT]
(2) Green amaran Ace 25c + Grid (back left)
Positioned behind and to the left of the leaves, then feathered forward toward the subject. The unit itself was green, but the light was set to a natural 4700K. This became the main light on the leaves, while the grid helped keep the beam focused on the subject without spilling onto the steel wool or nearby concrete wall.
(4) Adaptalux Blue Flexible LED Light (background)
Aimed directly at the steel wool (3). Combined with the wide f/2.8 aperture and very short distance behind the subject, this transformed the illuminated strands into large blue circles of bokeh between the two leaves.
(5) White amaran Ace 25c (upper right)
Positioned from the upper right and set to an orange tone. This added subtle separation and warmth to the upper portion of the scene while balancing the cooler blue highlights in the background.
(7) Circular Polarizer
Used on the lens to reduce unwanted reflections from the wet leaves. Rotating the filter helped control the glare and reveal more color and texture in the subject before the artificial lighting was built around it.
[KEY SETTINGS]
f/2.8 · 1/125s · ISO 400
30 images captured
30 images used in final stack
Underexposed by ~2 stops
[INTENT]
Create the illusion that one leaf was reflecting the other while using artificial light and shallow depth of field to transform an otherwise ordinary background.
[KEY IDEA]
Control where your light doesn't hit just as carefully as where it does.

Explanation

What initially attracted me to this composition was the relationship between the two leaves. Their position naturally created the impression of a reflection, and I wanted the lighting to reinforce that illusion rather than overpower it.
The biggest challenge was that I had almost no room behind the subject. The steel wool and concrete wall were both very close, which made controlling light spill especially important.
Because the leaves were wet, I also had to deal with quite a bit of reflected light on their surface. Using a circular polarizer allowed me to reduce some of that glare and bring back more of the natural color and texture before building the rest of the lighting.
By shooting wide open at f/2.8, I could turn the illuminated steel wool into much larger circles of blue bokeh. The cooler highlights between the leaves helped suggest the feeling of water, while the warm accent from the opposite side added enough color variation to balance the scene.
The final image looks much more complicated than the scene actually was. There was no reflection and no water behind the leaves—just careful light placement, shallow depth of field, a polarizer, and a small piece of steel wool.

Gear Used

– Canon R5
– Canon RF 100mm Macro
– Circular Polarizer
– amaran Ace 25c (x2)
– amaran Grid Attachment
– Adaptalux Flexible LED Light
– Steel Wool
– Benro Tripod

Settings

Camera: Canon R5
Lens: Canon RF 100mm Macro
Aperture: f/2.8
Shutter Speed: 1/125s
ISO: 400
Filter: Circular Polarizer
Focus stacking: 30 images used
Focus Bracketing: 30 images captured

Breakdown

I started by composing the two maple leaves (1) so the lower leaf almost felt like a reflection of the one above it. Once I found the angle, I underexposed the natural light by approximately two stops. This gave me a darker starting point and much more control over how each part of the scene would appear.
Because the leaves were wet, I was getting quite a bit of reflection from their surface. Before building the lighting, I added a circular polarizer (7) and rotated it until I found the best balance between reducing the glare and keeping some natural highlights. This helped reveal more of the color and texture in the leaves and gave me a cleaner starting point for the artificial lighting.
The first light I introduced was an amaran Ace 25c (2), positioned behind and to the left of the leaves. The unit itself was green, but the light was set to a natural 4700K. Rather than pointing it directly across the entire scene, I feathered it forward toward the subject so only part of the beam illuminated the leaves.
The background was physically very close, so controlling spill was extremely important. I added the grid attachment to keep the beam focused and prevent the light from illuminating the steel wool or concrete wall (6) behind the subject. This allowed me to reveal texture and shape in the leaves while keeping the surrounding scene much darker.
Once the main light was controlled, I started building the illusion of the reflection.
I placed a small piece of steel wool (3) only a couple of inches behind the leaves, roughly between them in the composition. I then aimed a blue Adaptalux Flexible LED Light (4) directly at it.
Because I was shooting at f/2.8 and focusing much closer on the leaves, the individual strands of steel wool disappeared completely. Instead, the reflected blue light became large, soft circles of bokeh running between the two leaves.
The distance was especially important here. I didn't have much room behind the subject, so shooting wide open helped maximize the size of those highlights even though the steel wool was only a couple of inches away. Those blue circles also helped reinforce the illusion that the lower leaf might somehow be a reflection of the upper one.
At this point, the image was almost complete, but I felt the upper-right portion of the frame needed a little more separation. I positioned the second amaran Ace 25c (5) from the upper right. This was the white Ace unit, and I set the light itself to an orange tone. I kept it subtle, using just enough warmth to create separation while balancing the cooler blue highlights elsewhere in the frame.
Because I wanted to preserve the large background highlights, I didn't want to close the aperture to gain additional depth of field. Instead, I kept the lens wide open at f/2.8 and captured 30 images at different focus points.
Those 30 frames were stacked in post-processing, allowing me to keep both leaves sharp while preserving the soft, oversized bokeh that was such an important part of the image.

Quick Tip

Don't forget about polarizers for macro photography. They're not only useful for landscapes.
Wet leaves, mushrooms, flowers, and other reflective subjects can produce a surprising amount of glare. A circular polarizer can help control those reflections and reveal more of the natural color and texture underneath.
Rotate the polarizer while looking through the viewfinder rather than simply putting it on and assuming it's working. Even a small rotation can make a noticeable difference.
Just remember that a polarizer also reduces the amount of light reaching the camera, so you'll need to compensate for that in your exposure.

Final Thoughts

Sometimes creating an interesting image isn't about finding the perfect background. It's about recognizing what you already have around you and figuring out how light, depth of field, and a few simple elements can completely transform it.
There was no water creating this reflection—just two leaves, some steel wool, and carefully controlled light.
And maybe that's what I enjoy most about creating images like this. You're not necessarily photographing what was there. You're exploring what it could become.

Watch the process