Underwater Illusion
Explanation
What I enjoyed most about this setup was experimenting with the colors of the amaran Ace 25c. I could fine-tune the light until I found the blue tone that created the atmosphere I was looking for.
But creating the right color was only part of the challenge.
With such a small subject, I needed to make sure the mushroom didn't disappear into the blue background. That's where the two Adaptalux Flexible LEDs became important.
By placing them extremely close to the mushroom and carefully controlling their direction, I could create subtle highlights around its edges while keeping the background darker.
The final result came from balancing those three lights rather than simply making the scene brighter.
But creating the right color was only part of the challenge.
With such a small subject, I needed to make sure the mushroom didn't disappear into the blue background. That's where the two Adaptalux Flexible LEDs became important.
By placing them extremely close to the mushroom and carefully controlling their direction, I could create subtle highlights around its edges while keeping the background darker.
The final result came from balancing those three lights rather than simply making the scene brighter.
Gear Used
– Canon R5
– Laowa Aksen 1:1–5:1 Extreme Macro Lens
– amaran Ace 25c
– Adaptalux Flexible LED (x2)
– Edelkrone SliderONE v3
– Laowa Aksen 1:1–5:1 Extreme Macro Lens
– amaran Ace 25c
– Adaptalux Flexible LED (x2)
– Edelkrone SliderONE v3
Settings
Canon R5 + Laowa Aksen 1:1–5:1
3:1 magnification
f/4 · 1/100 sec · ISO 200
100-image focus stack
3:1 magnification
f/4 · 1/100 sec · ISO 200
100-image focus stack
Breakdown
1. Creating the Underwater Atmosphere — Light #2
The amaran Ace 25c was positioned approximately 3 inches from the mushroom, mostly above and behind it.
I experimented with different colors before settling on a blue tone that gave the scene its underwater appearance.
The purpose of this light wasn't simply to illuminate the mushroom. It was to establish the atmosphere of the entire photograph.
I also wanted the background to remain a darker shade of blue, creating contrast between the subject and its surroundings.
2. Creating Separation — Light #3
I positioned the first Adaptalux Flexible LED on the left side of the mushroom, approximately 1 inch away.
This light created a subtle highlight along the edge of the subject, helping define its shape against the blue background.
Because the mushroom was so small, positioning the light just slightly differently could significantly change the result.
The important part was directing the light toward the mushroom without unnecessarily illuminating the background.
3. Defining the Opposite Edge — Light #4
The second Adaptalux Flexible LED was positioned on the right side, approximately 1.5 inches from the subject.
This created another subtle highlight, complementing the light on the opposite side.
Together, these two lights helped create separation while preserving the darker blue atmosphere.
I wasn't trying to illuminate the mushroom evenly. I wanted enough contrast to reveal its shape while keeping the scene soft and atmospheric.
4. Controlling the Background
One of the most important decisions was keeping the background darker than the subject.
If the flexible LEDs had spilled too much light onto the background, the mushroom would have lost some of its separation and the scene would have appeared flatter.
By controlling the direction of each light, I could preserve the darker areas while allowing the mushroom and water droplet to stand out.
This is something I pay close attention to in macro photography. The areas you leave dark can be just as important as the areas you illuminate.
5. Capturing the Focus Stack
At 3:1 magnification, depth of field becomes extremely shallow, making it difficult to capture the entire mushroom and water droplet sharply in a single photograph.
I used my edelkrone slider to capture 100 photographs at f/4, 1/100 sec, and ISO 200.
One of the biggest challenges was vibration. Even the slightest movement can affect sharpness and make stacking more difficult.
Once everything was positioned correctly, the best approach was to avoid touching the setup and let the capture happen.
6. Bringing Everything Together
The final photograph combines the blue atmosphere created by the Ace 25c, the carefully controlled edge highlights from the two Adaptalux LEDs, and the additional depth of field achieved through focus stacking.
What makes the illusion work is the relationship between the illuminated mushroom and the darker blue environment around it.
The entire scene was created on land, but the lighting gives it the feeling of an entirely different world.
The amaran Ace 25c was positioned approximately 3 inches from the mushroom, mostly above and behind it.
I experimented with different colors before settling on a blue tone that gave the scene its underwater appearance.
The purpose of this light wasn't simply to illuminate the mushroom. It was to establish the atmosphere of the entire photograph.
I also wanted the background to remain a darker shade of blue, creating contrast between the subject and its surroundings.
2. Creating Separation — Light #3
I positioned the first Adaptalux Flexible LED on the left side of the mushroom, approximately 1 inch away.
This light created a subtle highlight along the edge of the subject, helping define its shape against the blue background.
Because the mushroom was so small, positioning the light just slightly differently could significantly change the result.
The important part was directing the light toward the mushroom without unnecessarily illuminating the background.
3. Defining the Opposite Edge — Light #4
The second Adaptalux Flexible LED was positioned on the right side, approximately 1.5 inches from the subject.
This created another subtle highlight, complementing the light on the opposite side.
Together, these two lights helped create separation while preserving the darker blue atmosphere.
I wasn't trying to illuminate the mushroom evenly. I wanted enough contrast to reveal its shape while keeping the scene soft and atmospheric.
4. Controlling the Background
One of the most important decisions was keeping the background darker than the subject.
If the flexible LEDs had spilled too much light onto the background, the mushroom would have lost some of its separation and the scene would have appeared flatter.
By controlling the direction of each light, I could preserve the darker areas while allowing the mushroom and water droplet to stand out.
This is something I pay close attention to in macro photography. The areas you leave dark can be just as important as the areas you illuminate.
5. Capturing the Focus Stack
At 3:1 magnification, depth of field becomes extremely shallow, making it difficult to capture the entire mushroom and water droplet sharply in a single photograph.
I used my edelkrone slider to capture 100 photographs at f/4, 1/100 sec, and ISO 200.
One of the biggest challenges was vibration. Even the slightest movement can affect sharpness and make stacking more difficult.
Once everything was positioned correctly, the best approach was to avoid touching the setup and let the capture happen.
6. Bringing Everything Together
The final photograph combines the blue atmosphere created by the Ace 25c, the carefully controlled edge highlights from the two Adaptalux LEDs, and the additional depth of field achieved through focus stacking.
What makes the illusion work is the relationship between the illuminated mushroom and the darker blue environment around it.
The entire scene was created on land, but the lighting gives it the feeling of an entirely different world.
Quick Tip
When using colored lighting, don't focus only on the color of your subject. Pay attention to how that color affects the entire scene.
If your subject starts blending into the background, try adding a small amount of edge lighting rather than increasing the brightness of your main light.
In macro photography, moving a light just a few millimeters can make a noticeable difference. Creating depth is often about controlling where the light doesn't go.
If your subject starts blending into the background, try adding a small amount of edge lighting rather than increasing the brightness of your main light.
In macro photography, moving a light just a few millimeters can make a noticeable difference. Creating depth is often about controlling where the light doesn't go.
Final Thoughts
What I love about macro photography is how easily a tiny subject can become something completely different through lighting.
This mushroom was only about 10 mm tall, yet a few carefully positioned lights transformed it into a scene that feels underwater.
It's another reminder that creating an interesting photograph isn't always about finding an extraordinary subject. Sometimes it's about exploring what's possible with the ordinary ones.
This mushroom was only about 10 mm tall, yet a few carefully positioned lights transformed it into a scene that feels underwater.
It's another reminder that creating an interesting photograph isn't always about finding an extraordinary subject. Sometimes it's about exploring what's possible with the ordinary ones.
